Our first holiday abroad had to be
somewhere special, I am fanatical over archaeology and
history, and so it was that my wife Vanessa decided it
had to be Cyprus, she had studied the brochures
and chose Pafos as the base for our holiday.
It was May the 15th 1996 that our
flight touched down at Pafos airport and our most
memorable holiday was to begin.
I had been suffering from the pressures
of self-employment and this holiday was to bring me
back to my old self, Our children David (10) and
Rachael (14) were as excited as my wife, but I had a
frown on my face as we travelled on the air conditioned
coach, the houses appeared half finished with
reinforcing rods jutting up from the flat roofs, the
scenery did not match my expectations, Vanessa looked
at me and could read my mind!
We stayed in a villa attached to Pafos
Gardens Hotel, I was shocked at how spacious it was,
we had our own patio with an orange tree complete with
oranges !! although we had no air conditioning the
cool flooring and plenty of windows kept the gentle
Cypriot breeze wafting through our rooms.
It took a couple of days for us to find
our feet, I remember walking down the main street and
a shop assistant telling me that David my son must
wear a hat, I thought he was just trying to sell me
one, but quickly I began to realise this was not the
case, the friendliness of the cypriot people is one of
the attractions of the Island !
Car hire is everywere, Its a pleasure
bartering for the right price, and once I had realised
that the sound of a car horn meant 'I am a taxi' I
decided it was time to hire a vehicle.
We hired a jeep, it was our third day,
and the holiday was about to become our most memorable
ever!
we quickly learned to forget the maps,
when we left the main road it was a case of follow
those tracks, a compass and a full tank was far more
important!!!
we went on our own safari, knowing that
the locals would wellcome us wherever we went, The
Troodos mountains are beautiful, as we climbed the
steep roads we were treated to panaramic scenery our
only regret was not taking warm clothing with us as
the jeep climbed higher.
Our trips took in as many
archaeological sites as we could possibly get to,
there are so many, even getting there was fun!
We visited all the museums around us
and found each one different. One place we visited was
the 'House of Dyonisis' a museum of mosaics in
Pafos...
This museum is a vast floor pan of
mosaics left by the Romans, it is near Pafos Harbour and
is a must for any tourist. It was Monday, our holiday
was getting near its end and we had decided to try
places more local to make the holiday last that bit
longer. As we marveled at the many different designs our
attention was drawn to a small mosaic that had been
discovered under the Roman ones, It was a Hellenistic
mosaic, the information board told us that at the time
it was discovered this was one of only two examples ever
been found in Cyprus. It was different as it was created
using small pebbles, these were chosen for their size
and colour and laid on edge to create a design, The one
we were looking at had a mythological tormented
creature.
My son paid particular attention to the
information board that referred to how these mosaics
were made.
We left the museum and drove our jeep a
short way along Leophorus Apostolus Pavlou, we stopped
by a large cave that cuts into a rocky plateau, It had
been utilised for ancient burials. Next to this is
an underground chapel Ayia Solomoni, we walked to
the top of the plateau to admire the panoramic view that
it gave of Pafos, we kept to the well used track that so
many vehicles had made.
As we strolled along the top of this
plateau I was amazed at the amount of ancient pottery
just lying on the ground, Vanessa and our daughter
Rachael, where admiring the small but beautiful wild
plants that sprang up everywhere while our son David
wandered a little further up the dirt track. Suddenly he
bobbed down and began brushing the dust away with his
hands, he shouted back that he had found a Hellenistic
mosaic! Of course we did not believe him, we assumed it
was his imagination, as we continued to do our own
thing, David continued to brush the dust to one side!
upon reaching him I was stunned! there in front of us
was our son, he was kneeling down cleaning the dust away
from all these pebbles, they had been laid out in a
pattern that resembled the waves of the sea, he had
uncovered part of a foot, and said he thought it was
Neptune! we were all speechless, we just stood and gazed
at what he was unearthing! I realised the importance of
this and told him to cover it back up!
As the museums had now closed we had to
wait until Tuesday to report it! We hardly slept
that night it was so exciting. The next day we went to
the Pafos District Archaeological Museum and reported
David's discovery, needless to say they did not believe
us, however after some convincing the officer of
antiquities requested we show him, we traveled to the
spot in his enormous 4x4 vehicle, when we got there
David uncovered the part he had found. The officer
just gazed in disbelief, he told us to get back into his
vehicle and we sped off at a frightening pace stopping
at St Paul's Pillar to collect two field archaeologists,
from there we proceeded to a large building site, were
an expert on mosaics was stationed.
Although we could not understand their
language the word Hellenistic kept reoccurring. David
received a very warm handshake from them all.
Sadly it was now Wednesday the day we had
to return to England. We packed our luggage and returned
the jeep, then we made our way to the mosaic for one
more look, when we got there the archaeologists had
already uncovered a large part of it, they had been
clearing the site from 6.00am. One of them told our son
that they had examined the area in 1972 with no result,
and that the mosaic would soon have been destroyed by
vehicles if he had not discovered it.
The mosaic is now on public display, a
roof has been put over it, a purpose laid graveled track
leads towards it and view points have been placed
nearby, making the whole site a tourist area.
We are very proud of what they have done
and will never forget what was the experience of a
lifetime, our only regret is that no mention is given
that our son at the age of ten was the finder of such an
important discovery!
Copyright 2000 Armata on behalf of Tony the owner.
We are expecting a follow up, as David and family are
having a holiday in Paphos on 5th April 2002.
And here it is !
I cannot believe I wrote to you saying I would give you an update on
my son David's Hellenistic mosaic, and then forgot!!!
It was not until we decided to book our next holiday on you
beautiful island, that I remembered.
Well here it is, hope you approve.
It was 1996 when David made his discovery of a lifetime, he was a
child of ten at the time, but he knew it was important, he knew it
was special, I remember like it was yesterday, looking down at him
moving the sand and dust away from all those pebbles. Those small
chosen for their size and colour pebbles, that had been
carefully positioned over 2000 years ago. They had made part of a
beautiful floor for some ancient magnificent building that is now
long, long, gone.
The time had come for us to revisit our island of dreams. It had
been six years since our last visit and was well overdue.
Rachael our daughter had decided to stay at home, but David was more
than pleased to join us, especially as his girlfriend lyndsey was
also being invited!
We stayed at the Basilica Gardens, Pathos, it was nice, but we where
in an apartment block, rather than a seperate villa style apartment,
that had been our home six years earlier. The latter was at the
Pathos Gardens Hotel, and was simply lovely.
That evening we took the obligatory stroll to catch up on lost
memories, but more importantly to choose a Taverna for our evening
meal, can you imagine our surprise when we arrived at 'Brothers Restaurant'
and was warmly greeted by the owner who said
' welcome back, where is your daughter? ' yes they really do
still remember! On the way back to our apartment we stopped to
admire the latest vehicles to hire, it seemed strange being able to
open car doors to inspect the interior when it was 11.30pm without a
salesman in sight.
We awoke refreshed the next morning and laid out our plans, they
were quite simple, hire a Suzuki 4x4, visit David's mosaic, and then
go wherever the road (or tracks) would take us.
The mosaic is completely uncovered now, it measures some 10metres x
2.5metres, a fisherman stands, Trident in one hand, net in the
other, further along two small Dolphins, their noses touching each
other, around the whole mosaic is geometric patterns, at one end it
opens up so that it takes the form of a T.
We
took many pictures of it, but it is difficult to get the angles to
show its true size and colour. Although it is now covered by a well
built structure, a dusting of fine blown sand seems to be creeping
over it.
Whilst visiting we could not help but notice how much building work
was going on, especially underground work, it was this that
intrigued us so much. We had heard so many stories about recent
discoveries of ancient burials etc, that we just had to keep looking
at the 'work in progress' sure enough it seemed that everywhere they
dug, they hit toombs! we even saw pottery still on what looked like
window ledges, 3 metres below the surface.
For any budding Indiana Jones, Cyprus is a must!
Copyright 2003 Armata on behalf of Tony the owner.
Click all pictures to enlarge them.
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